In mid-May, we hopped on a ferry to Hvar, ready for an island escape that blended history, culture, and some of our favorite little quirks. Instead of staying in the hustle and bustle of Hvar Town, we opted for a cozy spot outside the much smaller Stari Grad—a decision that gave us both a peaceful retreat and easy access to one of Europe’s oldest towns.
Every day, we walked down to Stari Grad, a place that feels as if it’s been whispering its secrets for millennia. Founded as the Greek colony Faros in 384 BC, Stari Grad is nestled at the end of Stari Grad Bay and surrounded by the dramatic landscapes of the Kabal peninsula and the Hvar ridge. This ancient town, once part of the Roman Empire and later ruled by pirates, Venetians, and even a Bosnian king, boasts a rich tapestry of history that you can literally walk through.
Strolling its narrow alleys, we delighted in amazing food and explored cute shops tucked away in every corner. It was a delightful mix of old-world charm and modern European flair. And east of Stari Grad lies fertile agricultural land—the UNESCO-protected Stari Grad Plain—where the Greek field layouts remain almost intact, a living testament to the island’s prehistoric roots.
Our adventures didn’t stop at Stari Grad. We spent some days driving around Hvar, uncovering several unforgettable spots:
- Fortica Fortress offered breathtaking panoramic views of the island.
- Napoleon Fortress stood proudly as a nod to the island’s layered past.
- Greek Fields—vast, sun-kissed expanses that reminded us of Hvar’s ancient agricultural heritage.
And, of course, no trip is complete without picking up a few souvenirs and personal treasures. I snagged my favorite summer pants—linen and flowy, perfect for warm, breezy days. I also discovered what might just be my favorite fish (Sea Bass), and Daniel and I even added a quirky poster of an Adriatic map to our collection—though it ended up traveling home rolled up in Magnus’ bed! And as if that wasn’t enough, I picked up a Dalmatian wind t-shirt that’s now my go-to reminder of our life in Dalmatia.
Hvar sits between the islands of Brač, Vis, and Korčula. It is the fourth most populated of the Croatian islands. Inhabited since prehistoric times by Neolithic people who established trade routes with the Eastern Mediterranean, the island has seen countless civilizations pass through. In the 4th century BC, the Greeks colonized Hvar, laying down roots that would echo through the centuries. Later, in 219 BC, it became part of the Roman Empire, and then shifted hands through a fascinating series of rulers—pirates, the Kingdom of Venice, Croatia, Hungary, and even a Bosnian king—before finally becoming a Venetian stronghold in 1409.
During the Renaissance, Hvar emerged as a cultural beacon in Croatia, nurturing renowned writers and boasting churches filled with famous Venetian paintings. Even now, the spirit of those eras lingers in the architecture and the very air of the island.
Our May trip to Hvar was a vibrant blend of history, delicious discoveries, and personal adventures. From the ferry ride that kicked off our journey to the sun-drenched drives around hidden fortresses and ancient fields, every moment was a celebration of travel, food, and the timeless allure of the Adriatic. We experienced Hvar as both a historical treasure and a playground for modern wanderers.
Here’s to more adventures, more quirky finds, and more moments where the past and present come together in beautiful, unexpected ways.
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