Locking up our Split apartment for the very last time was both thrilling and a little emotional—it marked the beginning of our next adventure as we drove north to Zagreb. Our journey into Croatia’s vibrant capital was full of unexpected twists, playful moments, and heartfelt reflections.
Our first rental was a massive Ford Transit. While it promised plenty of space, it turned out to be a nightmare in Zagreb: parking near our hotel was nearly impossible, and our pups weren’t having any fun. Their little faces told the story of uncomfortable fear as they squirmed in their seats. Realizing we needed a change, we quickly swapped the Transit for a cute red sporty car that made exploring the city not only easier but a lot more fun. There’s something undeniably charming about zipping around Zagreb in a small car, with our four-legged companions happily riding in the cozy back seat.
In true modern traveler style, we balanced our wanderlust with a bit of work. We set up our digital nomad base at the hotel, where we could plug in and work while still soaking up the local vibe. The mix of productivity and exploration reminded us that life on the road is as much about work as it is about play—and sometimes the two blend together perfectly.
One of the highlights of our stay was a serene day at Park Maksimir. Founded in 1787 as the first park in Southeastern Europe and originally on the outskirts of the city, Park Maksimir is now a lush 780-acre oasis nestled within Zagreb. We strolled its paths, marveling at the thoughtful landscaping initiated by Bishop Maksimilijan Vrhovac and later redesigned by Bishop Juraj Haulik in 1839. It was a moment of quiet reflection in a city that’s as historical as it is alive.
Staying within walking distance of Trg Kralja Tomislava—home to the striking equestrian statue of Croatia’s first king—and Lenuci’s Green Horseshoe allowed us to wander the charming Lower Town on foot. Every cobblestone and corner of these streets echoed with Zagreb’s layered past, from its origins as two distinct city centers (Kaptol and Gradec) to their unification in 1851 by Josip Jelačić.
After the reign of Croatian King Tomislav, who ruled from 910 as Duke and from 925 to 928 as King, Croatia would not be a sovereign nation until the advent of President Franjo Tudjman in 1992. During his reign, Kralj Tomislav united the Croats of Dalmatia and the Slavs of Pannonia into a single Kingdom. Croatia notably had its own Parliament (Sabor) from 1273. While under subjugation of the centuries-long Hapsburg empire, which collapsed in 1918, Croatia enjoyed a degree of autonomy and had its own official language. During this era, Croatia was placed under Hungarian jurisdiction. For over a millennium, Croatia remained under the sovereignty of foreign powers. But many Croats continued to seek full autonomy.
— Frank Brozovich, Honorary Croatian Consul, Chairman of CroatiaFest
As our stay in Zagreb was coming to an end, our travel plans took an unexpected turn. We had originally booked a night train with a private sleeping car from Zagreb to Stuttgart, Germany—a plan that would have let us rest comfortably and keep our pups secure. However, just a few days before departure, we learned that the private car had been canceled. Faced with the need to ensure our furry friends could travel safely, we decided to rent a car instead.
Enter our first Volvo rental—a perfect fit for our new adventure. The difference was night and day; the pups settled in immediately, enjoying the comfortable seats and smooth ride. With our newfound freedom on the road, we added an overnight stop in Salzburg, a delightful detour that let us savor one more European city before continuing our journey.
Zagreb, the largest city and capital of Croatia, sits in the northern part of the country near the Slovenian border. With a history dating back to 1094, when a Hungarian King founded a diocese, the city has evolved through centuries—from its early days as two separate centers to the bustling, culturally rich metropolis we experienced. The art, architecture, and deep-rooted folklore of Zagreb are a testament to the resilience and spirit of the Croatian people, who have preserved their national identity for over a thousand years.
Our time in Zagreb was a bittersweet blend of work, exploration, and change. As we prepared to leave, we carried with us not only the memories of its stunning parks, historic squares, and friendly streets, but also the joy of overcoming little travel mishaps along the way. Every moment—from swapping out a cumbersome van for a zippy sports car to adapting our travel plans on the fly—reminded us that the road is full of surprises, both challenging and beautiful.
With hearts full of gratitude and anticipation for what lies ahead, we bid farewell to Zagreb, ready to embrace the next leg of our European roadtrip. And as always, we carry a piece of each city with us, along with the stories that make our journey so uniquely our own.
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